The fragrant aroma of Aleppo pines welcomed us long before our vessel, the 36-passenger MS Katarina, arrived at the picturesque island of Mljet, which is characterized by its lush greenery. Docking at the small harbor in Pomena, inhabited by just 62 residents, we found ourselves alongside a few fishing boats. The sunlight of early June shimmered across the calm waters, allowing me to finally relax after the stressful preparations and an early 3 AM flight to Dubrovnik.

This marked the beginning of an exciting week-long journey through Southern Croatia, exploring the stunning islands of Mljet, Korcula, Vis, and Hvar— with Korcula being inaccessible for larger ships. I was particularly thrilled that this cruise offered half-board accommodations, which meant that for five out of seven nights, we would dine in various restaurants along the shore.

As the most luxurious ship in Sail Croatia’s fleet, the Katarina featured modern amenities, including a sundeck, hot tub, a bright bar and dining area, and a swimming platform. My husband, David, and I settled into a cozy lower-deck cabin that boasted high portholes and tasteful decor in pale grey and turquoise. As I examined my reflection in the mirror, my stressed appearance was a clear sign that I desperately needed some relaxation and sunshine.

The other passengers on board were notably younger than typical cruise-goers, predominantly affluent millennials from Australia and the United States, including three newlywed couples who exchanged stories of their recent weddings. One couple was inspired to book this trip after watching the TV show Below Deck, even though the Katarina did not foster any romantic entanglements—many crew members were family, with Captain Ivan’s relatives helping in various roles.

After recovering from our earlier journey, David and I enjoyed a delightful meal that included a selection of Dalmatian cheese and ham, followed by a delicious sea bass paired with Croatian rosé, all for around £25 each at a quaint restaurant perched on the edge of a jetty. The half-board format was economically friendly; we spent about £125 each on meals throughout our week.

Our first complete day was filled with activity as we embarked on a morning cycling excursion through the mostly car-free Mljet National Park (entrance fee: £21 per person; bike hire: £17). We pedaled around Veliko and Malo Jezero, two serene saltwater lakes bordered by vibrant greenery. The soothing sounds of rustling pines and birds filled the air. We parked our bicycles at a jetty across from the islet of Sveta Marija and waved for a boatman to take us to a fascinating 12th-century monastery surrounded by fragrant gardens and ancient olive trees. The day concluded with a refreshing swim from the rocky shoreline.

As we departed Mljet, we set our sights on Korcula under a blanket of darkening clouds. I felt a little anxious as the early June weather was quite variable, but after a brief rain shower, the skies cleared, illuminating the late afternoon with a warm glow.

We explored the stunning old town of Korcula, meandering through its beautiful cobbled streets in the fading warmth of the day. A delightful dinner awaited us on the terrace of Pizzeria Pape, where we savored delectable pizzas topped with fresh ingredients while enjoying a chilled glass of wine, all with a view of the deep blue sea.

We then visited Massimo, an iconic rooftop cocktail bar situated in one of the town’s ancient towers. Despite its reputation as a bit of a tourist trap, the experience of enjoying drinks atop the stone structure, overlooking rooftops and the harbor beyond, was exhilarating.

As we cruised along the coast towards Vela Luka, I found myself eagerly anticipating our daily swims, which had quickly become the highlight of my day. Anchoring the yacht near trees, we dove into the refreshing blue waters, our surroundings alive with the vibrant hues of aquamarine and navy blue, with fascinating sea urchins visible beneath the clear surface.

Although often overshadowed by Korcula’s allure, Vela Luka has its own historical significance. We climbed the nearby Pinski Rat hill to visit Vela Spila, a significant cave once inhabited during the Stone Age. The layers of rock in the cave tell a rich story of ancient human life and changing landscapes, fascinating archaeologists worldwide.

One memorable day, we ventured to the Blue Cave on Vis Island, famed for its captivating beauty and accessible only by boat (entry fee: £10). Even from early morning, crowds gathered as boats transported visitors through a dark tunnel to the vibrant cave, where sunlight refracted against the water creating an otherworldly blue ambiance that left us spellbound.

Continuing our journey along Vis’s coastline, we encountered its dramatic cliffs and crystal-clear waters. We learned that docking was often subject to the decisions of the harbor master, which is a common occurrence for Croatian islands, yet I reveled in the opportunity to swim from the yacht into the sparkling sea.

That evening, a Balkan barbecue prepared by the crew was a highlight, featuring an array of delicious meats, grilled vegetables, and local specialties (cost: £33 per person). Throughout the week, the culinary offerings remained impressive, including lunch dishes like flaky courgette pie, swordfish infused with garlic, and panna cotta topped with sour cherries.

Hvar, known for its hip vibe and lively atmosphere, was a point of excitement for many aboard, though I found its bustling crowds somewhat overwhelming. We ascended the medieval Fortica fortress, which rewarded us with panoramic views of the town and surrounding islands. Fellow passengers returned animatedly discussing their experiences at popular venues like Hula Hula beach bar and Carpe Diem club, while David and I preferred a quieter nightcap on the deck, soaking up the moonlight and observing the lively waterfront below.

Away from the bustling town center, Hvar offers a tranquil escape. We stopped for a swim in a stunning bay, featuring steep hills cascading into the turquoise waters and lush pines shading the rocky beach.

Stari Grad, the old town, charmed us with its elegant Venetian-style architecture along the waterside of a deep inlet. Strolling through its picturesque alleys adorned with blooming flowers and stunning mansions, we marveled at Hvar Island’s impressive six UNESCO World Heritage claims, ranging from its Mediterranean diet to the notable craftsmanship of nuns weaving aloe fiber into lace, and the fertile plains cultivated since ancient Greek times.

Our final swim took place at the base of Marjan Hill in Split, where I floated on my back, mesmerized by the majestic cliffs and pines above me. However, the cruise came to a hectic conclusion as we docked near a bustling ferry terminal in the intense heat.

As Croatia predominantly operates in cash, I soon realized we needed to settle our final accounts in euros; our indulgence in wine and refreshments had accumulated a significant bill. Our last afternoon involved withdrawing cash from the nearby ATMs and wandering through the animated alleyways of the magnificent Diocletian’s Palace, finishing with a final pizza before departure. It’s essential to remember that cash is king when embarking on such cruises.

While cruising on a small ship may not be the most affordable option to explore Croatia, it provided an unparalleled experience—visiting quaint towns, lesser-known islands, and enjoying delectable meals onshore. The soothing swims and the overall comfort revitalized me; my worries faded, stress lines disappeared, and I felt serene and rejuvenated. Such moments are truly priceless.