The stunning Caribbean paradise of St Lucia is well-known among British travelers as a serene retreat, yet it has not yet established itself as a luxury destination like St Barts or Mustique, which has long been favored by celebrities and royalty. Unlike other nearby islands like Antigua and Barbados, St Lucia has retained a more understated charm.

The island boasts breathtaking volcanic landscapes replete with lush greenery, cascading waterfalls, and unique features like mud baths and sulphur springs, particularly in its southwestern region. St Lucia seems to favor showcasing its natural beauty over aggressively promoting its hospitality sector.

While there are a few upscale hotels such as the impressive Jade Mountain, which has drawn attention through media features, St Lucia has managed to cultivate an identity that goes beyond merely catering to the affluent.

However, this might soon change with the introduction of a remarkable new luxury space called Spice of Life, a 35,000 sq ft villa described as the Caribbean’s largest private residence. Owned by a British family residing in Bermuda, the Greens, this grand villa is situated on the grounds of the Viceroy Sugar Beach Hotel, which they purchased in 2019, and is nestled beneath the awe-inspiring Pitons, a UNESCO World Heritage site characterized by its towering volcanic peaks.

Sugar Beach represents the quintessential Caribbean hotel, characterized by its low-profile architecture and set within a sprawling rainforest of over 100 acres. Previously owned by a British accountant for the Rolling Stones, Sugar Beach was once under the stewardship of Lord Glenconner, who helped popularize Mustique in the 1960s.

As a newcomer on the island, I am captivated by St Lucia’s dramatic scenery, reminiscent of a cinema backdrop, and I am equally impressed by the warm hospitality of its people. From the attentive staff at Sugar Beach to my knowledgeable driver who shares insights about local flora and landmarks, St Lucia feels distinctively rooted in its culture and community. It’s noteworthy that it holds the title of having the highest number of Nobel laureates per capita of any independent nation.

Spice of Life is a striking architectural feat designed by Botelho Wood Architects, strategically positioned above the beach but subtly out of sight from Sugar Beach. This modernist villa evokes the grandeur associated with high-profile celebrity retreats and is equipped with numerous luxury amenities. Accommodating up to 18 guests, it features 24-hour butler service, two kitchens (including an industrial-grade kitchen ideal for events), 13 bathrooms, a private chef, an infinity pool, a children’s playroom, an outdoor cinema, a gym, and exclusive beach access. Uniquely, it also boasts a formidable collection of modern art, showcasing works from renowned artists including Damien Hirst and Jeff Koons.

The villa’s location away from the main hotel is advantageous, offering guests privacy while still allowing access to the hotel facilities. But with so many luxurious amenities at Spice of Life, it’s hard to imagine wanting to leave. The main living area features a captivating light sculpture by James Turrell, which continuously changes colors, illuminating the elegant dining space surrounded by abstract artwork.

Ascending a sleek blond-wood staircase leads to an expansive floor filled with airy en suite bedrooms, each equipped with modern bathrooms and outdoor showers. The design includes rich textures and a calming color palette that allows the stunning views of the Caribbean Sea and the soaring Pitons to take center stage.

During my stay with friends, we lounge by the infinity pool, sip cocktails, and stroll to the private beach. The villa also includes a gym, while the hotel’s spa professionals are available for massages and wellness treatments. However, the highlight remains the gourmet meals prepared by the dedicated chef, which rival any high-end dining experience.

The Greens, who also manage the Hamilton Princess hotel in Bermuda, have grand ambitions for Sugar Beach. Future developments include a new racket club and treehouse spa built using traditional Carib-Indian methods, as well as a Cocoa Mill offering chocolate-making experiences that celebrate the island’s cocoa heritage.

My experience at Spice of Life was enjoyable, though I sensed a slight disparity between the villa and Sugar Beach. The main hotel features tastefully appointed rooms and villas with outdoor plunge pools, but the overall facilities could benefit from a modern infusion to match the luxury of Spice of Life.

Will the arrival of Spice of Life elevate St Lucia’s status akin to its trendier neighbors? It’s possible, especially as St Lucia remains a unique Caribbean gem relatively untouched by mass tourism and luxury commercialization. I envision that Spice of Life will draw a more discerning type of traveler seeking tranquility, luxury, and authentic Caribbean experiences.

Your Guide to Affordable St Lucia

By Siobhan Grogan

For diverse day trips and immersion in local culture, consider staying near the capital, Castries. Windjammer Landing Villa Resort and Residences is just a ten-minute drive away, set amid lush rainforest with a stunning beach view. The resort features cozy, tropical-hued rooms and a plethora of on-site activities such as swimming pools and a kids’ program. Dining options include casual beachside fare and a steakhouse.

The adults-only Bel Jou Resort provides a tranquil escape with high-quality service and well-appointed rooms featuring balconies with picturesque views. It offers spa services, fitness facilities, and a daily schedule of engaging activities.

Roaming further north, the lively town of Rodney Bay offers an abundance of dining, shopping, and nightlife options. Soco House, an adults-only hotel, captures Creole charm, with beautifully appointed rooms and relaxing amenities including a poolside bar.

The Harbor Club, part of the Curio Collection by Hilton, sits opposite Rodney Bay’s marina and offers guests unique activities like diving and dining options, all while boasting stunning ocean and mountain views.

For those seeking adventure, the area surrounding Soufrière is ideal, given its proximity to the iconic Pitons and geothermal sites. Ladera Resort, the only hotel within the Unesco-listed Pitons area, offers extraordinary views, handcrafted design, and a range of wellness activities.

Activities to Experience

Taking guided hikes is a fantastic way to explore the Pitons and obtain stunning vistas, with various trails available across the region. The nearby La Soufrière volcano is renowned as the world’s only drive-in volcano, offering opportunities for hot mud baths.

Other nature-centric excursions include swimming in serene pools at Latille Falls or zip-lining through the rainforest. For an unforgettable experience, partake in whale watching between October and February, with numerous boat tours departing from Castries.

All beaches on the island are publicly accessible, including those fronting resorts, with Anse Chastanet and Jalousie Beach ranked among the most beautiful options. For authentic local cuisine, the Castries market offers an array of dishes, with weekend street parties enhancing the culinary experience.

Have you discovered a hidden gem or favorite spot in St Lucia? Feel free to share your recommendations in the comments.