At 4:45 AM, I questioned whether we should proceed with our plans. We were up at the crack of dawn for a safari in Yala, a sprawling national park covering 378 square miles in southeastern Sri Lanka, known for its diverse landscapes that include grassy plains, woodland, and lagoons.

Leopards were at the forefront of our minds. The previous afternoon during our game drive, we had caught only a fleeting glimpse of one of the estimated 350 leopards that inhabit the park, leaving us eager for a more robust experience.

This trip was the second half of a week-long family adventure in Sri Lanka. My husband, our five-year-old son, and I planned a leisurely route from Colombo to Yala. Along the way, we would explore tea plantations in the Kalutara Highlands, relax on the beautiful southern coast beaches, and visit the historic city of Galle, established by the Portuguese in the 16th century.

Our holiday had been anticipated for a while now. With our son starting primary school, it marked a transition not only in finances by reducing nursery fees but also a chance to engage in more adventurous family activities. Sri Lanka was an appealing option: it offered an easy pace, manageable jet lag with just a 5.5-hour time difference, and a rich variety of experiences in a compact time frame. Despite contemplating how much simpler an all-inclusive resort in Greece might be with a young child, I packed bug spray and anti-nausea medication with determination.

Outside our tent at Kulu Safaris, we were greeted with fresh coffee and hot chocolate for our son, indulging in the dawn atmosphere as the sun rose. By the time we reached the Galge gate at Yala’s Block Five, we were met with warm daylight, and I adopted an excited tone to spark our son’s enthusiasm for this wildlife adventure—Leopards! Crocodiles! Painted storks!

Yala is the second-largest national park in Sri Lanka, made up of five designated blocks for efficient wildlife management and leopard observation. While Block One boasts the highest leopard concentration, it often faces overcrowding during peak season, so we opted for the quieter Block Five.

After four hours traversing bumpy mud tracks in the jeep, we still hadn’t spotted more than a fleeting view of a leopard darting off into the bush. “Some days are like that,” our Tamil guide Praba Premasiri stated, a reminder of the unpredictabilities of nature.

Nonetheless, we marveled at an elephant playfully investigating another safari-goer’s breakfast (a reminder to keep food outside the park), observed countless grey langur monkeys, and watched a crocodile with its mouth agape. Peacocks were busy strutting their feathers to impress peahens, alongside gazelles and a plump mongoose darting up a tree. My son was fast asleep during our eagle sighting.

While a safari in Africa might yield more wildlife sightings, the logistical challenges and costs of family travel often elevate the barriers. In contrast, Yala provides an accessible introduction to wildlife for families with young children.

Returning to our lodge, a delightful breakfast featuring Sri Lankan hoppers, coconut sambol, honey, and buffalo curd awaited us up in Kulu’s treehouse, which we accessed via a rickety staircase. The treehouse offered a stunning lagoon view adorned with signs warning of crocodiles, while storks flitted above the water and monkeys scrambled through the rosewood trees. Meanwhile, my husband and son were engrossed in a game of Uno No Mercy.

During our initial two days in Sri Lanka, we acclimated to local culture in the Kalutara Highlands, approximately two hours from Colombo, at Glenross Living, a beautifully restored 19th-century estate surrounded by tea, cinnamon, and rubber plantations. This stay provided valuable insights for our son, who learned that Sri Lanka is the world’s fourth-largest tea exporter. Additionally, he discovered that the rubber harvested here is transformed into various products, including the small bouncy balls he was fascinated with throughout the trip.

Samuel practiced tapping rubber trees during our estate walk, while the adults enjoyed lush scents of cinnamon as we relaxed overlooking misty hills. Our first breakfast featured Bengal monitor lizards climbing the coconut trees, complemented by the cacophony of chattering geckos, and we watched entranced as lightning illuminated the distant hills accompanied by thunder rumbling overhead. Our everyday life in London felt worlds away.

Following our stay in the Kalutara Highlands, we drove five hours to Yala along a peaceful new highway, taken by the lush landscapes featuring palm groves and lagoons, with quirky road signs cautioning about peacocks.

Upon reaching the beach town of Mirissa, nestled between Galle and Tangalle, we embraced a few days of relaxation beside a lengthy saltwater pool. As a parent, I found joy in watching my son frolic on the beach while contemplating the local café scene filled with budget-friendly options and spa treatments. Three days of unwinding, savoring local cuisine, collecting fallen coconuts and flowers, and swimming provided just the right balance for our family.

Still, we remained active. On one of our mornings, we engaged in a cycling tour around the paddy fields near Galle, enjoying the sight of egrets riding on water buffaloes as they rested in puddles. We also took a serene boat ride on Garadu Gaga Lake, stopping to explore an island reminiscent of childhood storybooks. At dusk, we observed bats emerging in droves, creating a darkening silhouette against the evening sky, while Samuel was captivated by the pigeons on our hotel balcony.

Our visit coincided with the Sri Lankan New Year, adding festive fireworks and beachside celebrations to our itinerary. It was one of those picture-perfect moments in parenting—enjoying a drink while watching my son and husband play in the sand as the sun set over the horizon. We effortlessly topped off our day by being in bed by 10 PM.

If we had extended our stay in Sri Lanka, we would have explored the cultural triangle, home to ancient cities like Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa, Kandy, the UNESCO-listed Sigiriya rock fortress, and the cave temples at Dambulla. I would love to have experienced the scenic train journey from Kandy to Ella and see more wildlife beyond just leopards. Yet, our week touring the southern highlights suited our family perfectly. Our five-year-old thrived, and so did we.